Xa Phin: A village above the clouds

Nestled at an altitude of more than 1,000 meters beneath the cloud-shrouded Tay Con Linh mountain range, Xa Phin Village in Thanh Thuy Commune offers visitors a glimpse into a way of life that has endured for generations. Home to more than 50 Dao households, the remote highland community is renowned for its breathtaking landscapes, terraced rice fields and, most notably, its unique moss-covered stilt houses.

A moss-covered house in Xa Phin Village, Thanh Thuy Commune.

Although located just over 20 kilometers from the center of Ha Giang Ward 1, the journey to Xa Phin remains challenging, with steep mountain roads winding through rugged terrain. Yet those who make the trip are rewarded with the sight of a peaceful village emerging from layers of mist and clouds. For generations, the Dao people have adapted to the harsh conditions of the high mountains, preserving their traditions while building resilient livelihoods.

The village’s most distinctive feature is its traditional stilt houses roofed with palm leaves and naturally covered in vibrant green moss. Thanks to the cool, humid climate and year-round mist, moss begins to grow on the roofs four to five years after construction. The lush green layer reaches its peak between October and April, giving the village a timeless and enchanting appearance.

Recognizing the tourism potential of these unique homes, local residents have transformed seven traditional moss-covered houses into homestays. The initiative has created new sources of income while allowing visitors to experience Dao culture and daily life firsthand.

Dang Van Linh, Secretary of Xa Phin Village Party Cell (front left), discusses local economic development opportunities with villagers.

Alongside community-based tourism, Xa Phin has developed a diversified rural economy built on forest and agricultural products. Villagers cultivate more than 100 hectares of black cardamom and over 100 hectares of ancient Shan Tuyet tea, including tea trees that are several centuries old.

In 2021, the Peng Tea Cooperative was established to promote sustainable tea production and enhance the value of local products. Today, the cooperative supplies nearly one ton of premium dried tea annually, contributing significantly to household incomes and local economic growth.

Photo caption: Dang Van Hau, Director of Peng Tea Cooperative in Xa Phin Village, selects high-quality Shan Tuyet tea buds before processing.

Thanks to the development of cardamom cultivation, ancient tea production and homestay tourism, living standards in Xa Phin have improved markedly, with the number of poor households declining steadily. Despite economic progress, the Dao community continues to preserve its rich cultural heritage through traditional costumes, the Coming-of-Age Ceremony (Cap Sac), the Fire Dancing Ritual and other longstanding customs. These enduring traditions remain at the heart of Xa Phin’s identity, ensuring that development goes hand in hand with cultural preservation.

Minh Hoa